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Flax fibre has particularly interesting environmental and mechanical qualities, however it represents less than 1% of textile fibres in the world although it is the bast fibre most used in textiles (as opposed to jute and sisal, whose volumes are clearly higher, but are classified outside textiles). This observation is explained by the fact that: i) its transformation from the field to textile fibres is well known, ii) the textile fibre does not have a single fixed scale (elementary fibre, textile fibre or technical fibre or other) and iii) finally, of the difficulty inherent in transforming flax fibres into yarn.
During spinning process, i.e. the transformation of fibres into yarn, each machine produces a fibre flow whose mass and/or volume evenness must be characterized for its optimisation.This article lists and describes the main parameters that influence the evenness of fibre flows.It concerns different steps of spinning from the draw frames to the proper spinning machine (ring, rotor spinning or air jet spinning machine, etc.) through combing machines, a roving or a rubbing frame.These parameters come from the fibre characteristics incoming the spinning machine and from the complete process (the types and numbers of machines and their settings).
Electrospinning is a processing technology of fibres in the nanoscale range with well defined achitectures. This article presents the different methods of electrospun fibers fabrication and discusses the influence of the different processing parameters on the fibrous structure. The (synthetic or bio-based) polymers most commonly used in electrospinning are listed. This article also contains the main applications of electrospun fibers for filtration, tissue engineering and in the field of fibrous sensors.
Smart textiles are systems endowed with the ability to react and adapt to the environment. Their design and integration of miniaturized electronic components must take into account constraints such as reliability, lifespan, and the possibility of washing or cleaning these systems. This article covers the basic concepts and describes the design and integration methods for manufacturing smart textiles. It also examines existing standards ensuring the robustness and reliability of these systems, as well as the testing methodology and recommendations to ensure optimal reliability and lifespan.
This article proposes to describe all the different components of the weaving machine and their impact on the production of the woven fabric. The links between the different process parameters and the resulting product parameters are also established and allow a better understanding of their influence on the final woven structure.
The weaving process consists of two main stages, one related to the preparation of the warp yarns and the other to the interlacing of the warp and weft threads on the weaving machine. However, depending on the numerous product parameters which are specific to the fabric and the yarns used, the production schemes are adapted to the production of dobby or Jacquard fabrics according to the desired purpose: sampling, small and medium series, large series. This article proposes to define all the production schemes adapted to the final application of the fabric. The different steps of the warp yarns preparation are described and detailed.
O-textiles (optical textiles) use optical fibers as sensors, or lighting and solar energy harvesting systems. These fibers are generally made of two components (core and shell). For sensor applications, the shell interact with the environment which leads to a change of its optical properties and thus of the transmitted optical signal intensity. This article presents the different materials used to make polymer optical fibers and their main applications, as well as an overview on stimuli-responsive polymers used in smart textiles for drug delivery and sensing applications.
Smart and e-textiles are functionalized textile systems with the capacity to react and adapt themselves to the environment. A classification relating to the reliability and requirements in terms of the functioning of these systems is also defined in this article. A general description, followed by several examples of achievements, is presented in this article, including their designs, realizations, and uses. The definitions and study cases shown, contain their design, production, and utilization. The general introduction and three sections on the basic definitions and describing e-textile bio sensors, and e-textile systems able to harvest and convert mechanical and electromagnetic energy to electrical energy, are given in this article.
Woven structures can be defined according to many parameters. Two main categories of fabrics can be found (Dobby and Jacquard fabrics) with two types of yarn usage (dyed yarns or unbleached with/without piece-dyed fabrics). In order to understand the different product and process parameters which define the different types of fabrics, this article provides the definitions necessary to understand these different parameters. A precise definition of the weave diagram theory is also provided and allows to identify the three fundamental weaves (Plain, Twill, Satin) as well as some derived weaves. Examples of dobby and Jacquard fabrics are illustrating the distinctive parameters that make them up.
Ensuring both protection and comfort is a major challenge for technical textiles. A fully waterproof material provides protection but not wearer comfort owing to the impossibility of exchanging heat and moisture with the external environment. Comfort and protection are therefore two conflicting concepts that require a compromise provided by air permeability of fabrics. To design a garment made of several layers and to dimension textiles reliably, prediction of permeability is useful. This article presents possible methods of measurement and prediction together with new prediction tools adapted to the realities of the textile sector.
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