Overview
ABSTRACT
The classification of borderline products, positioned between various regulatory frameworks - cosmetics, medical devices, dietary supplements, biocides -, represents a major challenge. It influences formulation, production, marketing claims, and regulatory strategy. A misclassification can lead to high costs, market delays, or penalties. This article outlines the classification criteria, their impact on product development, and illustrates these challenges through case studies in various sectors.
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Mathieu BOUARFA: Biologist/biochemist – Director of product development in the health and beauty fields – Speaker in the training of healthcare professionals and students – Scientific author, France
INTRODUCTION
The notion of borderline products refers to products that are, or appear to be, located at the intersection of several regulatory frameworks, making their classification often complex and open to interpretation. These products, referred to as "borderline" by the European Commission, share characteristics common to several regulatory categories, such as cosmetics, medicinal products, medical devices, food supplements and biocides. This ambiguity poses a major challenge to their development, marketing and regulatory compliance.
The regulatory classification of a product is a key determinant of its successful development, directly influencing strategic decisions at all levels:
marketing: this determines product communication, time-to-market, and the choice of distribution channels;
research and development (R&D): this affects composition, formulation, packaging and the galenic or technical forms envisaged;
quality: it guides manufacturing processes, applicable standards and the selection of raw materials;
regulatory: it sets the rules for marketing, defines authorized claims and influences evaluation procedures.
Conversely, the marketing claims desired in a development strategy may themselves condition the regulatory status of the future product. For example, a toothpaste with a claim such as "helps prevent cavities" may have cosmetic status, while a claim such as "fights cavities" is reserved for medical status. This dynamic interplay between marketing strategy and regulatory requirements can be problematic, particularly in cases where the boundaries between product statuses are blurred. In some sectors, such as essential oils, the absence of specific regulations compounds this complexity.
In a context where the health, beauty and nutrition industries are looking for innovative solutions adapted to consumer expectations, managing these issues is crucial. Inadequate classification can lead to delays, unforeseen costs or restrictions, limiting market access and sometimes holding back innovation. Unless we reverse the trend and take advantage of this complexity to innovate rather than suffer.
This article looks at the design implications of borderline products, highlighting issues related to their regulatory classification and strategic impacts. It explores the sectors where these products are most common, such as cosmetics, medical devices, herbal medicines, fortified foods and biocides. Using concrete examples, the aim is to provide an overview of the technical and regulatory challenges facing designers and manufacturers, while developing a simple model...
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KEYWORDS
Borderline products | Regulatory classification | Product design | Regulatory strategy
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Cosmetics: from design to product
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Bibliography
Standards and norms
- Management de la sécurité des denrées alimentaires, 2e édition. - ISO 22000 - 2018
- Food safety management systems – Recommendations for the application of ISO 22000, 1re edition. - ISO 22004 - 2014
- Raw materials of natural origin – Vocabulary, 2nd edition. - ISO 9235 - 2013
- Bonnes pratiques de fabrication (BPF). - ISO 22716 - 2007
- Antiseptics and chemical disinfectants – Quantitative suspension...
Regulations
Public Health Code, sub-section 3: traditional herbal medicines (articles R. 5121-107-3 to R. 5121-107-15) (2025).
Article L. 5111-1 of the French Public Health Code.
Law of March 25, 1964 on medicines and its implementing decrees.
Regulation (EC) no. 1924/2006 on nutrition and health claims made on foods.
Regulation (EU) 2017/745...
Patents
EP1638582A1 – Use of hyaluronic acid for preparing compositions for treating oral cavity aphthas (2004).
CN106341977B – Improved mouthwash formulations (2015).
US7985432B2 – Insect repellent (2008).
WO2002036138A1 – A head lice formulation (2001).
Directory
Manufacturers – Suppliers – Distributors (non-exhaustive list)
Directory of cosmetics professionals:
http://www.cosmetic-valley.com/annuaire/
Directory of pharmaceutical companies :
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