Overview
ABSTRACT
Hair loss is a well-known phenomenon that affects both women and men. While the state of the art provides numerous examples of the hair growth cycle and the causes of its dysfunctions leading to hair loss, it also covers the main types of hair care ingredients - anti-hair loss agents, growth stimulators -, whether they are natural or synthetic. This article aims to discuss the causes of this phenomenon and the functioning of hair care ingredients. It will also present various existing scientific methods for validating the activity of these ingredients.
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Read the articleAUTHORS
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Mathilde HIMBAUT : Master's degree in chemistry - Institute for Innovation and Partnerships in Flavors, Fragrances, and Cosmetics, Université Côte d'Azur - J.-L. Lions Space, Grasse, France
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Camille DUBOIS : Ph.D. student in chemistry - NissActive - Nice Institute of Chemistry, Université Côte d'Azur, UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, Nice, France
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Sylvain ANTONIOTTI : Doctor of Chemical Sciences, HDR - Research Director at the CNRS - Director of the Institute for Innovation and Partnerships in Flavors, Fragrances, and Cosmetics - Nice Institute of Chemistry, Université Côte d'Azur, UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, Nice, France
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Xavier FERNANDEZ : Doctor of Science, HDR - University professor, Côte d'Azur University - NissActive, scientific expert - Nice Institute of Chemistry, Université Côte d'Azur, UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, Nice, France
INTRODUCTION
In 2018, a business intelligence firm announced that the global hair care market is expected to reach $211.1 billion by 2025. This growth can be explained by the dynamism of this sector, which is constantly seeking technological innovations to offer consumers ever more effective products. Consumers, concerned about the health of their hair, are using more and more shampoos and hair care products, preferably natural ones, to protect their hair from external aggressions. The diversity of hair types (Asian, African, Caucasian) is also helping to boost the range of hair care products on offer.
Hair loss, a phenomenon that affects everyone, although women are less commonly affected than men, is one of the main problems associated with hair. There are many causes: androgenetic alopecia, stress, hormonal changes (pregnancy, etc.), illness, etc. Hair loss treatments are developed using active ingredients with fortifying and stimulating properties.
After reviewing the current state of knowledge on the hair cycle and the causes of its malfunctions leading to hair loss, the main types of hair care ingredients (anti-hair loss ingredients, growth stimulants), whether natural or synthetic, and how they work will be presented. An overview of the various scientific methods used to validate the activity of these active ingredients will also be provided. Finally, a few examples of cosmetic formulations available on the market will be presented.
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KEYWORDS
Hair care cosmetic actives | hair growth stimulating active | bioactivity assays | anti-hair loss active
Hair growth and anti-hair loss cosmetic ingredients
State of the art: the hair cycle
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