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As formulation takes more and more place in the development of specific products, this article will allow the reader to carry out formulation operations, among other things, by analogy with existing achievements but also by taking into account changes in legislation. It presents various examples using commercial, scientific, and patent databases. It also highlights the importance of automatic processing for analyzing patent information, scientific publications and the Web. He underlines the importance of standards, among others those of the European community and the USA.
Owing to their many interesting physical and chemical properties, bacterial exopolysaccharides (EPSs) have found applications in many industrial sectors. The search for novel exopolysaccharides involves several steps: (i) creation of a library, (ii) screening of EPS producers, (iii) production under laboratory conditions, (iv) physical and chemical and biological characterization, and (v) final scale-up to industrial level. Novel marine exopolysaccharides are of great interest in cosmetics and personal care products . Some marine EPS have already found applications in this industrial sector.
Natural cosmetics have been gaining in popularity among consumers for several years now, as they are associated with an impression of safety, efficacy and respect for health and the environment. To respond to the trend towards natural products, the development of new natural ingredients is at the heart of the cosmetics sector's strategies. This article presents the main factors to be considered when selecting plants for the development of new natural active ingredients, the various regulations governing this development and the different stages in the development of a natural cosmetic active ingredient.
Pickering emulsions are emulsions stabilized by solid inorganic or organic particles. They have many advantages in cosmetic formulation, in particular a high stability against coalescence in the absence of surfactant. The article gives a presentation of their stabilization mechanisms by adsorbed solid particles. Thereafter, their relevance for cosmetic formulation is discussed and an analysis of their current or potential applications in cosmetics is given from a study of patents. Finally, it is shown that their behavior in cutaneous application is different of that of emulsions stabilized by surfactants.
Hair loss is a well-known phenomenon that affects both women and men. While the state of the art provides numerous examples of the hair growth cycle and the causes of its dysfunctions leading to hair loss, it also covers the main types of hair care ingredients - anti-hair loss agents, growth stimulators -, whether they are natural or synthetic. This article aims to discuss the causes of this phenomenon and the functioning of hair care ingredients. It will also present various existing scientific methods for validating the activity of these ingredients.
The practice of DIY, for Do It Yourself, is a great success in cosmetics. This is the result of distrust of these products and their ingredients, which could be linked to a number of health scandals and controversies over a number of ingredients. However, the proposed recipes are by no means satisfactory since the quantities of the different raw materials are rather random and neither the ingredients used nor the finished product can be controlled from the microbiological and analytical point of view. In this paper, examples will be taken in the field of oral, make-up, hygiene and care.
COSMO-RS is a theory that predicts liquid phase properties. This article reviews its main applications in the field of formulation, with examples such as the screening of green solvents, co-crystals, ionic liquids or deep eutectics to solubilize active pharmaceutical, cosmetic or pesticide ingredients as well as polymers. COSMO-RS also allows to anticipate the performance, toxicity and ecotoxicity of a given ingredient in the formulation. In addition, COSMOplex, recently developed, provides a framework to study surfactants, micelles and membranes. Finally, the “backfitting” function in COSMOquick provides a general toolbox to handle solutes and materials with an unknown or ill-defined molecular composition.
This article describes different industrial processes for obtaining emulsions, from mechanical agitation and high-pressure homogenizers (high energy processes) to phase inversion and membrane techniques (low energy processes). It should help decision making for the choice of a relevant technique. Indeed, for the same formulation, several technologies are available, with different operating parameters and characteristics, which may lead to various emulsion types: O/W, W/O or multiple ones.
This article deals with divided solid materials which are implemented in the chemical industry and used as a means of control, analysis and improvement. It introduces in particular the basic notions of the properties of grain. The intrinsic characteristics of particles (size, density, form, porosity, hygroscopicity, softening point, etc.) are reviewed together with the properties related to a particle population (size distribution, bulk density, homogeneity, etc.).
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