Aromatherapy: medicinal properties and regulation of essential oils

The natural medicine segment, which includes aromatherapy (the use of essential oils for medicinal, preventive and comfort purposes), is a dynamic market driven by numerous new products and innovations. In addition to high-performance innovations in promising therapeutic, wellness and cosmetic segments, brands have invested heavily in communication to stimulate this market. The craze for natural medicines alone does not explain the breakthrough of aromatherapy. In fact, essential oils are establishing themselves as complements, or even alternatives, to synthetic medicines. The global market for essential oils is experiencing significant growth, driven by their increasing use in aromatherapy. According to Openhealth, sales of the aromatherapy market in France were estimated at 349 million euros in 2017, with a clear advantage for pharmaceuticals.

A growing number of scientific studies are focusing on essential oils, enriching our knowledge of their chemical composition and their applications, particularly therapeutic. Under the influence of numerous parameters, the composition of essential oils from the same plant of the same botanical species is not constant, which has a direct impact on the efficacy and safety of the future finished product. As essential oils contain substances of proven efficacy, but also potentially toxic, they need to be well-characterized and used wisely. Their safe use calls for a strict regulatory framework.

When it comes to regulations governing the various possible statuses of aromatherapy products, the boundaries are sometimes blurred. Given that aromatherapy is not governed by any specific regulations, inconsistencies remain between the applicable regulations and the traditional use to which it may be put.

The aim of this article is to provide a better understanding of the quality and safety of essential oils, as well as their regulatory framework. To this end, the first part outlines the knowledge required to understand the quality, biochemical and toxicity criteria that must govern the choice of essential oils. The second part looks at the different regulatory statuses that may apply to them within the European Union.

As is customary in the industry, the contents quoted are, unless otherwise indicated, by mass.