Natural Polymers Formulation in Cosmetics

Polymers are important ingredients in cosmetics formulas. In recent years, there has been a growing interest in biomaterials in general, and biopolymers (or natural polymers) in particular. In fact, the cosmetics industry is turning to raw materials derived from natural sources (plants and marine resources), and designing products and processes that reduce or eliminate the use and synthesis of harmful substances. These polymers are enjoying a real boom because of their natural origins and, above all, their biodegradable and biocompatible nature. Natural polymers are used in all types of formulations. They are used in skincare products (sun care products, hair care products) and in make-up formulations such as nail polish, mascara, foundation or colored compact powders. These polymers provide film-forming, hydration, adhesion, rheological and gel-forming properties to meet the many functions of these cosmetic formulations. The need to find the optimum compromise between all the functionalities of a formulation calls for the use of several natural polymers within it, which can, under certain conditions, exhibit a certain synergy between them.

So, in cosmetic formulas, they are added:

• as film-forming agents in mascaras and nail varnishes;

• as thickeners and rheology modifiers in emulsions and gels;

• as emulsifiers in lotions and sun creams;

• as moisturizers, emollients, dispersants and water-resistant products.

After presenting in this article the particular properties that natural polymers can bring to cosmetic formulations, and discussing the most relevant parameters, we consider the predominant natural polymers found in these formulations. The mechanisms of action of these polymers in contact with the various tissues and appendages of the human body call for an increasingly elaborate chemical strategy in an attempt to respond appropriately and sustainably to varied environmental conditions. The chemical modification of natural macromolecules (cellulose, guar, etc.) offers great potential for this type of raw material in the future.