Overview
ABSTRACT
Since the 1970s skin cosmetics have been a continually growing line of business, and consumers are increasingly eager for products with attested properties. The wound healing cosmetics market is no exception: cosmetics claims are more and more often scientifically proven. After a recall on wound healing mechanisms, this article briefly reviews scientific techniques used to assess cosmetic activities. The main wound healing agents are then presented, together with the potential safety concerns raised by their use in dermocosmetics. Current legislation governing this market is discussed. Lastly some formulations currently available on the market are described.
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Read the articleAUTHORS
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Hortense PLAINFOSSE : Institut de Chimie de Nice, Université de Nice Sophia Antipolis, France
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Pauline BURGER : Doctor of Science Institut de Chimie de Nice, Université de Nice Sophia Antipolis, France
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Thomas MICHEL : Doctor of Science - Associate Professor, Institut de Chimie de Nice, Université de Nice Sophia Antipolis, France
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Anne LANDREAU : Doctor of Science - Doctor of Pharmacy, HDR - Associate Professor, UFR Santé, UNIV Bretagne – Loire, Université d'Angers Institut de Chimie de Nice, Université de Nice Sophia Antipolis, France
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Xavier FERNANDEZ (auteur correspondant) : Doctor of Science, HDR - University Professor, Université de Nice Sophia Antipolis - Director of the Master 2 Professionnel chimie formulation, analyse et qualité (FOQUAL) Institut de Chimie de Nice, Université de Nice Sophia Antipolis, France
INTRODUCTION
Cosmetics are a vast field, encompassing all products intended to come into contact with the superficial parts of the body. This highly dynamic sector has enjoyed strong growth for several decades. Consumer demand and regulatory constraints have led to the development of increasingly innovative active ingredients with proven properties. Since the term "healing" is reserved for pharmaceutical products, the cosmetics industry uses the term "skin repairer" to describe these active ingredients designed to improve healing.
In cosmetology, the active ingredients used are natural or synthetic substances, acting at different levels of skin repair. Their highly sought-after activities help combat micro-injuries, micro-cuts, skin dryness and ageing. For example, they can stimulate the migration and proliferation of various cell types, such as fibroblasts, keratinocytes and macrophages, which are essential for proper repair. They are therefore attracting a great deal of interest due to their many possible actions and diverse applications.
After presenting the state of the art in skin repairers, this article highlights the main mechanisms of skin repair and the possible sites of action of these cosmetic ingredients. The various models used to validate the activity of these products are also presented, together with an update on the regulations governing them. Finally, a summary of the main ingredients currently in use is presented, together with some examples of cosmetic formulations available on the market.
A glossary at the end of the article lists definitions that are important or useful for understanding the text.
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KEYWORDS
formulation | extraction | biological activity assays
Cosmetic ingredients for wound healing
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