Overview
ABSTRACT
Hair loss is a well-known phenomenon that affects both women and men. While the state of the art provides numerous examples of the hair growth cycle and the causes of its dysfunctions leading to hair loss, it also covers the main types of hair care ingredients - anti-hair loss agents, growth stimulators -, whether they are natural or synthetic. This article aims to discuss the causes of this phenomenon and the functioning of hair care ingredients. It will also present various existing scientific methods for validating the activity of these ingredients.
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Read the articleAUTHORS
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Mathilde HIMBAUT: Master's degree in chemistry - Institute for Innovation and Partnerships in Flavors, Fragrances, and Cosmetics, Université Côte d'Azur - J.-L. Lions Space, Grasse, France
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Camille DUBOIS: Ph.D. student in chemistry - NissActive - Nice Institute of Chemistry, Université Côte d'Azur, UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, Nice, France
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Sylvain ANTONIOTTI: Doctor of Chemical Sciences, HDR - Research Director at the CNRS - Director of the Institute for Innovation and Partnerships in Flavors, Fragrances, and Cosmetics - Nice Institute of Chemistry, Université Côte d'Azur, UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, Nice, France
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Xavier FERNANDEZ: Doctor of Science, HDR - University professor, Côte d'Azur University - NissActive, scientific expert - Nice Institute of Chemistry, Université Côte d'Azur, UMR CNRS 7272, Parc Valrose, Nice, France
INTRODUCTION
In 2018, a business intelligence firm announced that the global hair care market is expected to reach $211.1 billion by 2025. This growth can be explained by the dynamism of this sector, which is constantly seeking technological innovations to offer consumers ever more effective products. Consumers, concerned about the health of their hair, are using more and more shampoos and hair care products, preferably natural ones, to protect their hair from external aggressions. The diversity of hair types (Asian, African, Caucasian) is also helping to boost the range of hair care products on offer.
Hair loss, a phenomenon that affects everyone, although women are less commonly affected than men, is one of the main problems associated with hair. There are many causes: androgenetic alopecia, stress, hormonal changes (pregnancy, etc.), illness, etc. Hair loss treatments are developed using active ingredients with fortifying and stimulating properties.
After reviewing the current state of knowledge on the hair cycle and the causes of its malfunctions leading to hair loss, the main types of hair care ingredients (anti-hair loss ingredients, growth stimulants), whether natural or synthetic, and how they work will be presented. An overview of the various scientific methods used to validate the activity of these active ingredients will also be provided. Finally, a few examples of cosmetic formulations available on the market will be presented.
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KEYWORDS
Hair care cosmetic actives | hair growth stimulating active | bioactivity assays | anti-hair loss active
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Cosmetic active ingredients for hair loss prevention and growth promotion
Bibliography
Websites
QIMA Life Sciences – CRO specializing in cellular and molecular pharmacology, offering a range of solutions dedicated to preclinical research and the development of drug candidates, active ingredients, and cosmetic formulations:
https://qima-lifesciences.com/bioalternatives/ (page accessed on March 15, 2023)...
Events
Beyond Beauty Events – International trade shows for beauty and wellness suppliers and brands:
http://beyondbeautyevents.com/bbe_00_Home.asp
GDR Cosm'actif Research Group Conference – Dedicated to exchanges between public and private research for scientists working in the field of cosmetics:
Standards and norms
Good Manufacturing Practices
- Cosmetics – Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) – Guidelines on Good Manufacturing Practices. - NF EN ISO 22716 - 2008
- Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products – Part 1: definitions of ingredients. - NF ISO 16128-1 - 2016
- Cosmetics – Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for...
Regulations
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European Commission
Commission Regulation (EU) No. 655/2013 of July 10, 2013, establishing common criteria for the use of claims on cosmetic products (OJEU L190 of July 11, 2013).
Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of November 30, 2009 on cosmetic products (OJEU L342 of 12/22/2009) (
Patents
D. I. Shik, C. G. Yup, Composition for promoting hair growth and restoration, 2009 KR20100115933A.
L. Wei, S. Huihui, C. Neng, W. Zhippeng, L. Dan, H. Yanhan, H. Fei, Nano composition containing diaminopyrimidine oxide and pyrrolidinyl diaminopyrimidine oxide and preparation method and application of nano composition, 2019, CN109528725B.
Directory
Manufacturers – Suppliers – Distributors (non-exhaustive list)
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Suppliers of cosmetic ingredients (non-exhaustive list)
KimiKA Group (United States): https://kimika.us/index.php (page accessed on March 15, 2023)
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